Perhaps I should back up a bit….

I’m now off on my fourth full Camino. Having nailed the Frances, English and Portugues, it’s now time for the Primitivo. This of course sounds like it is a primitive trail – all hair shirts, raw mammoth for dinner etc. The Primitivo actually refers however to the fact that this was the first route to Santiago.

Back in the 9th century when Spain benefited from a very diverse society, pilgrims to Santiago who took the route along the lowlands often found themselves experiencing the delight of having a starring role at a slave market. To avoid this, they started a route through the mountains – hence the primitivo.

But the route through the mountains was quite tough. I think to celebrate their general toughness the locals built some amazing churches, like this pre-Romanesque example outside Oviedo