Left Sarria today. Sarria is the last jump-off point from where you can get a compostella on arrival in Santiago, being about 115km out. My guidebook gravely warns those of us who have walked from France away from a misplaced sense of superiority over those pilgrims doing a much shorter walk. We should, the guidebook says, greet all in loving acceptance.
All I can say is really? The long term pilgrims are dirty, scruffy and mainly full of joy. The newbies are made-up, coiffured, and mainly a lot less fun. There are an awful lot of new people in the trail, many of whom don’t seem to be carrying rucksacks and at one point there was an air-conditioned coach waiting. That really is Camino-lite.
Monastery, Sarria
On the way out of Sarria, popped into a Benedictine monastery. Delightful elderly brother with a great range of languages was there to welcome all and give a chance to look around the cloisters and the church. Very special. On leaving the monastery I was asked whether I was a Brazilian. This led to a whole discussion around whether I could pull this off and I think as long as no-one sees my lower, very white, pasty, English legs I should be fine. I am, however, now Miguel.
People do get a little carried away with the Camino spirit.
Not quite the ring…..
And sometimes the wayside shrines are just odd. This one has abandoned clothes all over the place. Looked more to me like a rubbish tip.
Just weird
Today's end point was Portomarin, a town that had been built at the top of a hill when the valley below was needed for a reservoir on the rio Mino The entrance to the town was cool, over the water, but slightly let down by a long flight of steps that had to be climbed. The church had been dismantled from its original location and put back together, stone by stone. The church is Romanesque, with its original mandorla.
St Nicolas, Portomarin
A very pleasant dinner with some travelling companions at which I ate the local specialty, pulpo, or octopus. Below, from left, Karin, Miguel (previously known as Nick), Heather, Tomas and George. Most entertaining conversation about different nations’ ideal Camino. The Brit Camino is a booze cruise pretty well the whole way to Santiago but with a short walk at the end to sober up. The German Camino according to Tomas would be a straight pedestrian autobahn with every hill in the way flattened. George made us collapse with laughter when he said the Greek Camino was a set of taxi rank numbers.
Camino buddies
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