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Writer's picturePilgrim Nick

Day 8 Pontevedra to Armenteira

After breakfast, I decided I would do the Variante Espirituel. There was a neat little map on the sign at the decision point, explaining that it was 46km to the coast and then a boat ride. The steepness of the ascent seemed to be a bit scary but I assumed that was a simplification.

The first part of the espirituel was very easy and lunch was at the twee little port of Combarro. There seemed to be four people on the diversion - me, Angela, Dagmar and a student called Johanna.

After lunch one then climbs to the top of a mountain. Some wonderful views back over the bay were the reward and there were some miradors that provided platforms to take in the scenery.

What was a great surprise as we continued to climb was to come across wild horses living on the mountain. And to make things perfect there was a foal.


The overnight stop is at a little village called Monasterio which unsurprisingly has a monastery - actually a convent. I had booked a room but the nun (who had those eyes that only someone who has spent decades being close to Jesus has) explained that it was lights out at 9am and I didn't think I would have finished dinner by then. The alternative accommodation was the municipal albergue. The local hospitalero had decided that no-one was coming that day and decided to lock up. Johanna fortunately had had enough presence of mind to head straight to the albergue and sat in the door preventing him from closing.


So after dropping the rucksacks it was back to see the monastery. Standing outside the church I heard the most beautiful singing coming from within. To my surprise when I stuck my head in the door, I realised it was Johanna, sitting in a pew, filling the church with her voice. A magical moment.

The albergue was a little less than magical but it had two areas so I was able to create a man's side of the albergue which was entirely mine and the three women had the other side. I was being kind, trying to keep them away from my snoring.


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