Day 9 Chantada to Rodeiro

Chantada is a funny city. On first impressions it is clearly a “this place sucks” town. Like some rejection of capitalism from East Germany. Built under the motif “make it big, make it ugly”.

Communist-chic

But then one steps twenty yards off the high street to find a pretty old city, with charming buildings and arcades.  That’s where dinner was found, in a taperia called Bar Lucas.  Run by a young couple who are hoping to open an albergue, which would be great as there are none in town at the moment.

Today’s highlight was a climb to the top of a mountain, Alto Faro, which is the geographical centre of Galicia and from where one can see all four provinces.  At 1155m it was quite a steep climb (about 500m of ascent) from the little village of Penasillas at the foot of the mountain. But the journey was helped by drinking two pints (yes, proper English jars) of beer at the bar in the village first.  Penasillas was remarkable also for the fact that there were no fallen-down ruins – just smart, well tended houses and public areas.

Scruffy pilgrim

Smart village

The view from the top was excellent – clear skies and 360 vistas.

Someone had built a hermitage at the top in the 17th century.  Obviously the spiritual ancestor of the architect of modern Chantada.  Hard to think of an old church as ugly as this one.

And then a quick 12km down the mountain to Rodeiro, stopping only for more beer.  So a 30km day (as opposed to the guidebook’s overly optimistic 25.7) but it went very well. Thank goodness for Estrella Galicia beer.