The day opened to glorious sunshine and an early start. Today was a long walk over a few hills and I was getting mistrustful of the distances on the app. The charming hostess provided breakfast even though breakfast was not part of the deal - and then drove up to the previous day's stop at Almargem. What a star.
I fancied another coffee in Almargem but whatever cafes had been there were not open or had closed for good so I started to trudge up the hill, finding parts of the Roman road still continuing. There was a slightly surreal moment as a small herd of goats came down the hill, with a goatherds who must have been in her eighties or nineties. She saw me and promptly pointed to the turning I was meant to take. But the way she screamed in terror and pointed reminded me of that scene in "Invasion of the Body Snatchers" when Donald Sutherland is shown to have been turned. A few years ago in the middle of the flu epidemic I'm sure she would have passed me by with just a nod or good morning. The damage many governments have done to mental health through the relentless campaign of fear (if you haven't, read Laura Dodworth's excellent book, A State of Fear, which narrates how the British government decided to scare the population) will last long after we have learnt to live with Covid. It was quite a disturbing episode.
Still, terrified goatherds aside, the walk was very rural and beautiful. After about 6km (apparently only 4.5 on the app) one arrives at what was a once abandoned village called Cabrum which is now being gradually brought back to life by a bunch of eco-types.
There was a delightfully friendly lab living in the village who came up and introduced herself. And showed she was quite a bit brighter than this pilgrim. So this was the conundrum - left fork or right fork at this junction?
Looked at the map on-line, checked my GPS, looked at the trails and decided that it was clearly the high road to the right. So, started trudging up the hill and my friendly dog watched me walk a few paces and then kicked off big time. Lots of barking. Suddenly not so friendly I thought.
But then; hang on a second. Yep, was definitely going the wrong way. The lab immediately relaxed and joined me on the path. She clearly didn't trust this pilgrim not to make another mistake and walked a good half-mile down to a stream with me, occasionally disappearing into the undergrowth chasing something.
While the company was wonderful I got increasingly worried that she might be enjoying herself too much and would she be able to find her way back home. So after crossing the stream it was time for a last pat and to tell her to go home. She really didn't want to go. So I did one of the worst things I have ever done; I waved my stick at her. She gave me the saddest look - that look only a lab can give - and then turned and walked slowly away. Heartbreaking sight.
The stream obviously was the start of another long hill and I could feel the heat building already.
After another 6km (4 on the app!) one comes to the little village of Vila Meã. There was nothing on any maps to indicate anywhere to stop and rest but on pressing past the turn for the camino one came to a decent-sized bar. I grabbed the one table outside and sat and drank beer for a while before switching to a bit of lunch.
The entertainment was provided by a couple of builders working on a roof next door. Using a chain saw while balancing on a plank didn't seem to be that safe but they were clearly cool about it.
Although I was first in the bar, a steady stream of other customers arrived, with an assortment of dogs, all of whom smiled and said hello. After the goatherd incident it was nice to get some positivity.
Having drunk a fair bit, I needed to assess the rest of the walk. It was clearly going to be at least a extra few miles without any stops and the heat was getting a bit much. I decided to be sensible and get a taxi to miss one of the hills in the middle of the walk.
The walk into Castro Daire was pretty steep and I found myself taking little breathers as I went up the hill.
The river at the foot of the steep hill showed that this area gets some serious floods - moving boulders that size takes a lot of water.
Castro Daire itself was a mix of a very pretty old town where I was staying and a not very attractive new town.
But even in the new town there was some interesting stuff outside a church. I have no idea what this was meant to be celebrating.
Dinner was at an Italian restaurant, Feira dos Sabores. Big pizza and rough wine made for a good meal.
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