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Writer's picturePilgrim Nick

Day 5 Pola de Lena to Mieres

A short and very flat walk today. One can push onto Oviedo in one day (it's 32km) but again, why rush? One walks a short distance to the west of the A-66 motorway but there were still some pleasant pilgrim experiences. This church was one of them - the church of Santa Eulalia de Ujo in, unsurprisingly, Ujo. Originally from the 12th century, this church was 1) pretty and 2) open.





There was a tiny, ancient peregrina also visiting at the same time, a Dutch lady who clearly thought nothing of walking long distances long after most people have retired to the lounger. There was also a persistent young boy who was determined to be my church guide and showed me every nook and cranny of the place. I reckon his dad was a verger or something else at the church as he seemed very proprietorial.


And then finally into Mieres, an industrial town and the site of the last coal mine in Spain. It's also due to close as part of the Spanish government's green agenda which seems to involve sacking Spanish miners so that other countries can dig the coal that keeps the lights on. Regardless, Mieres has some very interesting traditions. This is big cider country or, sidra, as it is here. What is different is the way it is poured. I ordered a cider and a glass and bottle appeared. I made the socially inept step at pouring myself a bit of it - but no, the bottle was snatched away by a waiter who smiled condescendingly at my ignorance. And then poured...


There is clearly something in the technique that improves the taste. All I know is that the waiters work damn hard for their tips here.


No wonder they have raised a statue to them.


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