What a view to wake up to!
I was really keen on a coffee on the route but it proved frustrating. One leaves Pajares and descends down to a river valley. No cafes. Then a climb up the far side of the valley and a glorious 15km walk along the valley. There was the occasional glimpse of a coffee shop down in the valley where the N-630 runs but it seemed like a long shot to descend and then find a closed cafe.
One eventually cuts across the top of the hill to avoid a curve and the little village of Herrias was a treat. Apparently only another 1.5 km away there is a famous albergue (the Irishman actually went there just for the experience) in Benduenos. Again, a bit of a stretch to walk there.
One place that definitely needed a visit was the Iglesia Preromanica de Santa Cristina de Lena. This is a Unesco World Heritage site, a church built sometime between 840 and 860AD.
An absolute Romanesque jewel. As a pilgrim, you also get a stamp...
`The end of this stage was the modern, boxy but pleasant Hotel Ruta de la Plata in the centre of Pola de Lena. Dinner was in a pizza restaurant - amazing what good pizza and red wine can do to revitalise one after a long day.
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