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Writer's picturePilgrim Nick

Day 4 O Barco de Valdeorras to A Rua de Valdeorras


Pilgrim menu


The hotel last night – the Pension do Lar in O Barco de whatever – was super.  A proper pilgrim type place. Clean rooms and a great dinner prepared by a young chef who actually knew how to cook and came out to explain to me in good English what chicken villeroi was. So…a massive salad…a delicious main course…bread…a bottle of local red wine….a super lime cheesecake sort of pudding…coffee….served with a smile and friendliness…for £9.80.  It says something about rip-off Britain that to eat for one at Pete’s Poultry Paradise (“parties catered for!!! Ask about our Friday night bucket specials!!!”) in Gateshead would be more expensive.  And Pete goes to Bonzo’s Boxer Bargain Dog Food factory to get his meat from the stuff that has been discarded as unfit for canine consumption. If only the wine hadn’t come straight from the fridge. Still, better than Pete’s.


This morning I was served a proper pilgrim breakfast of toast, freshly squeezed orange juice and cafe con leche so I set off feeling pretty good. So good in fact that after a couple of km I came to an optional detour to see a monastery. I thought an extra 2 km wouldn’t hurt so set off…shame that it was 1 km uphill.  Still I persevered and got to the place.  Fascinating. Lovely romanesque architecture, put up by the Order of St John. Stuck at the head of a valley in a quiet village it was a magical setting. So unbelievably irritating to find it locked shut. Well done to the devoted gang in England who keep our local church open.

Pretty but cerrada


The guidebook mentions two possible routes to Arcos. The recommended route has been seriously closed – it’s one thing to put a gate across the path, it’s another to stick saw blades on top of the gate. And there were parts of this walk that reminded you that you were on a much well less-travelled route than the Camino Frances.  I’ve never had to slash thorns out of the way on any other camino.

Free tetanus anyone?


The road to Santiago


Anyway I walked through the little village of Arcos.  After my exertions, sadly Arcos had nowhere for coffee. It did however have a large stork’s nest complete with stork chicks. After Sunday’s experience I gave them a wide berth.


Another few km and it was now lunchtime.  I thought about detouring off the way to get to the village of Vilamartin but there was a beautiful spot next to the river and I decided to have a lunch of almonds and water there.  In my guidebook it says this is not a good place because of litter and disrepair.

Lunch spot, minus workmen


Clearly this has struck a sore nerve with the local council as no sooner had I sat down at the stone table there, a team of Spanish workmen turned up and started, after the obligatory cigarette, to use power tools to start clearing up the place.  The guy with the trimmer decided that I was part of the problem as he drove me away by choosing to start cutting a few feet away from me. I admit I don’t look that smart but it seemed a bit harsh…I’m not at Jeremy Corbyn levels of tramp chic.

River Sil


So a few more miles and I arrived at A Rua. A nice walk along the river Sil and great way-marking. Along the way I had booked a hotel – Hostel Niza – based on a recommendation by a recent pilgrim on the Camino forum.  It’s one of those hotels which is the upper floors of an office block so rather unprepossessing.  But the receptionist was charming and gave me a nice room with private bathroom and told me where the nearest laundrette was.


















Getting closer


So, showered and changed I set off to find said laundrette.  However before I could leave the hotel I was intercepted by an elderly couple – I suspect the receptionist’s parents.  The woman grabbed the bag of washing from my hand and told me that the laundrette was actually a dry cleaners and there was nothing for it but for her to wash my clothes. I was a little taken aback but she was one of those very determined smiling old ladies and all I could do was agree. So hopefully my clothes will reappear sometime tomorrow. With the extra time I went to a local supermarket, bought some fruit and admired the shelves of wine. I was taken by two things.  First sighting of Santiago cake which means I am getting close to Santiago. And also the recommended wine. This is the good stuff that you might bring to a dinner party.  Vina Dante. 1.05Euros. Perhaps I’ll buy a bottle for lunch tomorrow.

Headed off to the nearest tapas bar for a meal from where I am writing this. There is the traditional group of Spanish drinkers watching football at one end of the bar while loud music pumps out at the other end. The dinner was terrible – not particularly well warmed up frozen croquettes and some ghastly kind of fried pork on fried potatoes.  Well, one can’t have the perfect pilgrim experience every evening.

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