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Writer's picturePilgrim Nick

Day 4 - Farminhao to Viseu

Today was an early start as I wanted to get into Viseu and this was a short walk. Viseu is a very old city, having been settled by any number of invading tribes. The child's mother provided breakfast and then it was off. There were two possibilities; either to continue with the converted railway or to take a more direct line. I decided on the latter as, although it was a short walk, mu rucksack felt really heavy for some reason and I thought it wiser to keep the miles down.


Although Farminhao was a bit of a washout in terms of facilities, the sign below at least let me know I was now on the official route.
















And the walk led though some picture-postcard beautiful woods.


Much of Portugal has echoes of past times when the land was much more densely populated and much richer - this area was no exception. These pillars and gates might look fun-down but still speak of happier and wealthier times.












Morning coffee was where this direct route once again intersected with the railway line at Figueiro. Unlike the shabby-chic of Farminhao, this station building had been converted into a very smart cafe - the Cais Bar - complete with pastel de natas. Highly recommended, the only problem was getting up and leaving.




And then into Viseu. I had booked a city centre hotel and asked about the mask rules in a city. The answer seemed to be that one should but no-one was going to stop you if you didn't. So, fine. Dropped the rucksack off and straight to the cathedral for a visit before it closed for a three hour lunch break.


Viseu cathedral is well worth a visit, not least for the understated stamp I got at the Treasury. Great stonework, a neat cloister, and unusual extension to the west and a wide range of cool miserchordia carvings.




Then it was definitely time for lunch at a super-friendly little cafe, Penedra da Se, with a view overlooking the wall of the cathedral and a shed load of old Portugues buildings.

It was then time to check out the damage the walk had done to a unused-to-walking-for-a-bit body and choose somewhere for dinner. Portugal were playing in the Euros so it was a good plan to avoid anywhere inside. In the end, Porto 64, again near the cathedral, provided a great place to sit and eat and enjoy the ambience.




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