A short walk today, made all the shorter by getting a taxi back to the camino (yesterday's hotel was off the way). Yesterday's incredibly chatty taxi driver had been replaced by a more, taciturn individual which was strange given it was the same car and the same bloke. Still, today's camino started in a pretty little village called Cernache.
Coffee break was in a village called Palheira. There was nothing on the map that indicated a cafe - walked past a small commercial business but it seemed, from outside, possibly to be a launderette. Then, on closer inspection, once my eyes had adjusted to the gloom, the washing machine turned into a fridge and I was in Mercearia Rosa, a grocery. The lovely woman behind the counter sold excellent coffee for less than a 1€.
From there it was a pleasant walk into Coimbra, with a cruel false descent before climbing a final hill to see this historic city laid out.
Coimbra is a famous university town with an old and a new cathedral. Obviously the old one was the interesting one so it was off to cathedral square (about 50 yards from the apartment) for lunch. The cathedral did not disappoint. Romanseque and awesome.
Quite magnificent and reeking of history. Got a stamp and spent a happy time wandering around the building.
A good wander around the city followed, enjoying the views from the top of the hill and the views of beer in the cafes at the bottom. Coimbra is famous for its particular form of 'Fado", the mournful Portuguese folk singing so in the evening it was off to a 14th century chapel, A Capella, which was now a cultural centre. There was a delightful meal outside followed by a short concert. Coimbra Fado is distinctive in that it is traditionally just male voices. Really fascinating.
Only regret about Coimbra is that it should have been a proper rest day. Easily enough to see and do for a full day, not just an afternoon and evening.
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