Laza was a cool town. It's rare that you find a working farm in a British town, let alone a farm where the cattle casually stroll down the street.
Heading north-west now, coffee was at a tiny little makeshift cafe in Soutelo Verde. The owner was a friendly guy and seemed genuinely pleased to see pilgrims.
The camino vibe got a lot stronger a few miles further along the way at the Rincon do Peregrino in Alberguaria. A place with more scallop shells than a scallop factory. The walls were solid shells, all with the names of pilgrims who had passed through. The food was most welcome as was the beer to wash it down.
The walk to Vilar de Barrio was uneventful but charming, coming out of the mountains now with views to match. This is a wooded, gentle landscape. It would have been possible to do an extra few miles but I don't get the idea of rushing these stages. The "official" stage for today was 34km - so that would have meant a long old day without the opportunity to stand and just take in these wonderful views.
I had booked a room in a guest house for tonight and ended up having exclusive use of the place. A German guy I met considered the place and then decided it was just outside his budget.
But you can tell you are back in Galicia. Just outside the guest house was a collection of the distinctive horreos which had so puzzled me as to their function on my first camino.
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