The Quinta was lovely and a few km to the east of Mortagua. After a splendid meal the night before I had a good look at the map and realised that I could walk from the Quinta and pick up the route to Farminhao. So that was the plan. A long day but do-able. However, plans don't always work out. The day started with a leisurely breakfast and then the host asked if I would be interested in seeing the church across the road. Ir was normally locked but, as local lord of the manor, he had the key. Thinking that I would be unlikely to see this place again, I readily agreed and spent a very happy hour looking round the very interesting Igreja Matriz de Couto do Mosteiro.
It had some really interesting features, including a carved Christ.
So then it was off with a very late start and I realised I would not make the distance to Faminhao without the help of a taxi ride. So first it was a pleasant 7 or 8 km to San Joanino where I had a coffee at the working men's club after someone popped their head out of the door and said "cafe?". And 50 cents for a nice coffee.
So then it was a short walk and a taxi ride up to Canas de Santa Maria where lunch was at the Millennium Cafe. I wanted to get onto the Ecopista do Dão, a converted railway that runs between Tondela and Viseu. The lunchtime cafe was about a 1km from the track which was easy to find.
An absolutely delightful way. Such an easy walk and, of course, being an ex-railway, very flat.
The route also had some unexpected delights; one was a wild fruit garden with a super variety of fruit trees.
And there was a tunnel which was simply a work of art.
There are a number of railway stations that have been converted into cafes en route. Farminhao was one such station.
I had an arrangement to call the owner of the flat in which I was staying so I did so and had a drink while waiting. The owner said he would send someone to meet me at the station.
There was a child who was working behind the bar but had some English. After about thirty minutes the child handed over the bar to one of the drinkers and came over and said he would be the guide to the apartment. So about half a km further on, arrived at the apartment - some mime charade with the child's mother who had the key followed - and then in. It seemed to be some converted town hall - quite grand - and then it was time to explore this historic village.
All I can say is that Farminhao lacked a proper sense of its history. Nowhere to get a stamp. Even greater disappointment was that the church was closed. Nowhere apart from the station cafe to get a drink or eat. The station cafe, being a monopoly service, served meat or fish. I ordered meat and was served with half a cow. It wasn't great but it was certainly cheap. Then back to the apartment to collapse.
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