As happens often on the Camino, days start with a bit of a climb. That's because the towns are in the valleys 'cos that's where the water is. Today was no exception but a rather gentle 10km up to Alvorge where lunch was served. Lunch was at Victor's cafe where the first bifana of the camino was served. Naturally I had thought bifana meant something to do with beef; it's actually a delicious thin pork steak, marinated with a bit of wine and oil, in a baguette. Perfect pilgrim food. Met a pilgrim who had walked all the way from Lisbon, two Brits (from Essex judging by the accent and the conversation) and a northerner who looked like he was on the run from a turf war between drug gangs.
Victor was charming and helpful and it was a struggle to leave. However the countryside afterwards was terrific and well worth wandering through although the official way meant one was almost doubling back on oneself at one point.
Into Rabacal and stopped at the albergue for a beer and a plate of interesting sheep cheese. The German pilgrim from Lisbon appeared; she was the only inhabitant of the albergue that night and it had a pool so she was extremely happy with herself. Then on to Condeixa for hotel and sleep. My hotel also had a pool but by the time I had got in there, it was starting to rain. Nonetheless, I had packed my trunks and was determined to use them so I jumped in and pretended that the water wasn't cold. Dinner was pretty grim - the hotel was some sort of co-operative and the waiter wanted to demonstrate that Stasi-style surliness was still in fashion in his workers' paradise corner of Portugal.
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