Day 27 Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela

A 23km day but again through the plain so an easy walk. After 16km though I was keen on a drink and came to the little town of Riego de Camino. There was apparently a well-recommended and much loved place called Casa Camino, run by enthusiastic women. But not today. Cerrado.

So instead, the beer was in possibly the grimmest place I've been to in Spain (and I've been to a few). I should have guessed from the signage to be honest.

The bar had the usual day-time alcoholics in there but a distinct lack of daylight. The peregrina who walked in with me took her rucksack off, thought about putting it on the floor, looked at the floor, clearly thought "nope" and put it on a stool, which got a swift rebuke from the woman behind the bar.

I drank a beer and used the bathroom. The peregrina took one look at the bathroom and decided, again, nope. We left fairly quickly, not taking advantage of any of the bar snacks carefully placed in front of us.

Fortunately it was a short walk up to Granja de Moreuela, This is where the VDLP splits. To the west is the route via Puebla de Sanabria and through the southern part of Galicia. To the north is the traditional route up to Astorga where one can join the Camino Frances.

Well, I'm heading west. But not yet. The only accommodation in Granja was an albergue and I fancied something a bit nicer so took a taxi up to Benevente, a few miles up the road and on the traditional route. Stayed in a wonderful hotel, built around an old castle. The room was modern but the restaurant was super. The Conquest of Paradise was playing on the restaurant loudspeaker and it took forever to recognise the tune. A good night's sleep and ready to strike west the next day.