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Writer's picturePilgrim Nick

Day 19 Aldeanueva to Calzada de Bejar

A nice 22km walk today. First, breakfast in the pretty market square and then setting off towards those hills.

I realised that I was actually in a holiday area and the first part of the way was alongside a dam with a lot of camping grounds. But civilisation was quickly left behind after leaving the town of Banos de Montemayor.


The morning was also the last walk in Extremadura - at lunchtime, one crosses into Castilla y Leon.


The VdlP tracks alongside big North-South roads for much of its way but in these hills it is very easy to forget that there is a 21st century world a few miles away. Today had long stretches of perfect quiet, through woods and gentle climbs.









One of the interesting sights along the way are the Miliarios. These are Roman milestones - big granite affairs generally - placed every Roman mile (about 5000 feet). Originally there were 313 of these placed between Merida and Astorga. Over the years many have been re-used, some have been rebuilt - but still others remain, standing as they have done for almost 2000 years. They look like truncated columns (the Romans were good with columns).


Anyway, about 5 or 6 km before Calzada de Bejar, an elderly Spanish guy was standing just past the old Roman bridge at Malena. He started talking to the pilgrim I was walking with and I translated that he wanted to show us something interesting. I think she wasn't that sure but as I was relaxed about wandering off the track with a stranger we both went with him. He led us across a field and into what seemed to be a stable block - there was a horse in there anyway - and in the middle of this enclosed space was an original Miliario. Fascinating. Saying goodbye to this very proud owner of a piece of history, the final few kms went quickly.


Calzada de Bejar is a genuinely rural place. Not the smartest village, but the welcome was warm and friendly.



The B&B was great - there was a young child who seemed to be the custodian who eventually found a mother who had no English but a lovely smile and made an amazing dinner which was eaten in her kitchen. Drinks were at the Bar La Plaza just a few yards from the B&B which seemed to double as the live arts and music centre for the village.

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