Day 17 Riolobos to Carcaboso

Breakfast was mercifully delivered without Luna the mad dog and it was then time to find the supermarket to buy the day's water. This was the first day with frost on the grass but I was not going to stop being an Englishman abroad so shorts it was. Felt I was getting some slightly strange looks from the locals and other pilgrims but one has to keep up standards.

The route to Galisteo (about 10km) was at first a little disappointing in that one followed roads, albeit very quiet ones, rather than take a direct line over a low hill. The road follows a river valley and it is only when you get close to Galisteo that you realise that another river runs on the other side of the hill, cutting off the direct route. But Galisteo was a revelation. A walled town, built on a grid pattern. It was originally Roman and the walls you see today are from the 13th century, but could be older. Just an amazing place.

There were lots of good recommendations for places to eat in town but, as is often the case with walking out of season, they were all closed. I had coffee in the Plaza Mayor but two very screechy women drove me away. Lunch was sandwiches at the very pleasant Bar Aqui Mismo (The "Right Here Bar") where I discovered that asking for a cheese and ham sandwich will deliver a cheese and ham toastie.

It seemed odd to spend so little time in such an amazing town but eventually had to head out and walk the remaining 10K to Carcaboso (sadly mostly on tarmac again), stopping for coffee in Aldeheula de Jerte.

The hotel in Carcaboso gets amazing write-ups on various pilgrim fora, particularly for its food. The staff were all very friendly and once I'd managed the world's steepest staircase to get up the room, was ready for an early dinner. The menu was basically what the family were eating. It really wasn't great - again, the perils of off-season walking but it was mostly inedible. I'm sure during peak months it is fine - besides my toastie kept me going..