What finer way to start the day than crossing a river via a Roman bridge. This one has a miracle attached to it too... Apparently St Telmo (patron saint of navigators) was preaching on the bridge when a storm broke out. People start to panic and run, but St Telmo divided the clouds and the rain fell on both sides of the bridge, but not on his nervous congregation. A super piece of engineering, both in stone and in miracles.
This was meant to be a short day (21km), to gain time in Vigo. There is a coastal route and an inland route - the day seemed nice so the coast was calling. The day started off with some perfectly nice suburban areas and then it was time to hit the coast.
What was amusing was there seems to be an official coastal way and then a rebel coastal way. Someone, presumably a restaurant owner, has gone to the expense of creating the "green arrow way" and then someone else, presumably also a restaurant owner, has gone around scribbling "fake" on the green arrows.
If you look up TripAdvisor about Vigo, most of the attractions seem to be the beaches. Which I get. It's a nice place to come and splash about in. Not quite as good to lug a rucksack on the sand but still ok.
At one point, I must have missed a yellow or green arrow and went off track inland for a bit. The day was starting to stretch out. But coffee at a little pub (with the inevitable old chaps drinking the hard stuff before mid-day) gave enough energy to get back to the coast. Tried to get some food at a trendy bar by the beach (Vao beach centre) without success but then arrived at the wonderful Kiosk O de Monica on Playa de Calzoa. In a way it was encouraging to see other pilgrims there as they had obviously all had the exact same thought processes - "that restaurant doesn't look great", "I don't want a big meal", "I'd like to be by the water" and the Kiosk O de Monica ticked all the boxes. A must-stop!
Then it was into the centre of Vigo. There was a slightly bizarre interlude when I was accosted by a chap and his daughter (who spoke English) who seemed most concerned that I would walk too far. I went for the "can't get lost if I can see the sea" bit; I have no idea whether he was trying to divert me to his albergue or it was genuine concern.
Whatever his advice about the route, the last few km were grim. Perhaps the worst bit of walking I've done on any camino, traipsing through the docklands of Vigo. The very centre of Vigo was ok and there was a small historic area but most of the city was depressingly concrete. Got a stamp from the cathedral which was a bit of an experience in itself; asking for a stamp got me and three other pilgrims ushered into the vestry where the stamping was done with due ceremony. Stayed at a smart hotel in the centre and ate at a very good restaurant - O Rei Pescador ("The King Fisherman") which, unsurprisingly given the name, did excellent fish.
Vigo's final fling was a fantastic thunderstorm that evening. Sitting in the hotel bar, one got a tremendous Son et Lumiere show which washed the city clean ready for tomorrow.
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