No alternative routes today - this was treading on previously walked paths. It had clouded over and rain was definitely in the air.
Crossing under the AP53 was a camino experience with scallops and Santiago crosses on the walls.
But the rain clouds came in and soon I was in my poncho and hat, dancing up the road with music playing to keep me going.
After a few miles came to Casa Leiras, where you get great Italian coffee served by an Italian who has opened an albergue. He's a nice chap and while it rained we chatted about all the problems caused by lockdowns and then moved onto world politics. By the end of the second cup of coffee we had sorted out most of the world. But it was sad. His business is on a main camino and he had days without a single pilgrim. Last time I was there in 2019 his wife was making cake to sell in the cafe. Now there was no point.
Where the rain stopped, I said my goodbyes and headed out past the little church in the cvillage.
The walk to Lestede was a little longer than I remembered but not difficult. The heat having gone, I was no longer worried about running out of of water.
The guesthouse in Lestede was as splendid as I remembered. The dinner choice was "meat or fish" and delicious. Amazingly there were other guests there, a family with small children.
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