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Writer's picturePilgrim Nick

Day 12 Vila Real to Vila Pouca de Aguiar

A 30km day today. I was initially confident as the Gronze guide indicated lots of bars and cafes en-route. However a lot of them are now closed so this turned into a bit more of an endurance hike than expected.

Sunflowers of Borbelinha



In the little village of Escariz, about 5 miles out from Vila Real, it was nice to see the old method of washing clothes still happening.

Wash-day


After another 5km one comes to the only place for lunch, Vilarinho de Samarda. This little village has a well-rated restaurant, Adega Regional Passos Perdidas, which looked like a terrific place to have an early lunch. Unfortunately the owners had chosen this week to have a holiday so it was a matter of tripping up the road to Cafe da Margarida. I had popped my nose in there before heading down to the restaurant but there was no-one there, despite the door being open. On returning however, there was a cheerful woman behind the counter who rustled up some crisps and a beer.

Cafe da Margarida


From Vilarinho, the path went down a steep valley to the river Corgo. Despite the areas of overgrowth on the path, the way-marking was still pretty good.

View across the Corgo valley


I had been a little concerned about the river crossing as I could not see anything on the satellite view. I didn't fancy getting to the bottom of the gorge and then having to retrace my steps. I shouldn't have worried - the river crossing was a bridge that had seen better days but the percentage of rust was just low enough to let me cross safely.

Crossing the Corgo


On ascending the other side of the valley one comes to an ecopista. These are old railway lines that have been changed into pedestrian and cycling paths. They are great for covering the miles as they are inevitably flat. They also have some interesting old buildings - the old railway stations.

Samarda Railway Station. Next train will be a while.


The ecopista ate the miles up. The walk was enlivened by a huge snake that crossed the path a few yards ahead and by some rock formations. The giant stone cat below was a favourite.

Stone pussy...


After the uninhabited gorge, it was time for a drink. The social centre in Tourencinho was closed so in Gralheira I veered left to N2 and found a bar, A Recta, at the crossroads with the M557. Then it was a return to the ecopista that ran all the way to the roundabout at the entrance to Vila Pouca.


The final leg of the ecopista was endless. Infinite length in front and infinite length behind. What was nice was the company of a dog that rather liked the dental chew I threw to it and decided to follow for about half a mile.

Made more sense as a railway


Overnight was in a modern hotel in Vila Pouca. I was a bit too tired to search the town so ate in the hotel restaurant which, according to TripAdvisor, was the best restaurant in town anyway. And it didn't disappoint. I had Maronesa steak, Maronesa being the local Portuguese mountain cattle. Delicious.

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