Day 11 Santa Marta de Penaguião to Vila Real

This was a very short day (18km) but not easy. The lack of cafes on this route is a bit of a problem. Breakfast at the farm was excellent and one sets off under blue skies. The initial part of the walk goes through vineyards and weaves down a valley to the village of Banduge before heading back uphill to Conceiro. At this point one is looking for a second cup of coffee but no luck.

Heading past Santa Comba

The way out of Conceiro had been blocked; some building work had clearly been going on and the construction workers had dealt with the problem of disposing of a few tons of rubble by chucking it down the footpath with yellow arrows. I tried a few steps but the rubble was loose and I could see that I was very likely to fall and do some damage. So it was a bit of a detour, reckoning that at least I could stop at a hotel for a coffee a couple of kilometres later.

Nope. Closed.

So then it was mostly road walking, punctuated by a little rest stop sitting on a wall next to the gates of a Quinta. After a long slog along the N2 - but with some great views - one enters the village Assento where I came across the aptly-named Cafe Convivio. The food was perfect for lunch and the service quick and friendly. The owner was particularly nice - I don't think he has many pilgrims stopping in.

Looking down at the village of Veiga from the N2

The last part of the journey was fortunately off the N2. The trail veered off to the East, through the valley created by the River Sordo. The road into the valley was steep and narrow. I had to step to one side to allow a farm vehicle to come up the road. It was a curious vehicle with two chaps in the cab and three elderly ladies hanging onto the grab bar in the pickup bed. As it was raining at this point, this seemed to be an ungallant arrangement. However the driver stopped as he passed and asked whether I was off to Fatima. Having explained I was heading to Santiago, the lovely ladies decided to fortify me; an old tin mug was found and they filled it with red wine from a wine box in the back. I obviously had to drink and, declining a second cup and after many joint blessings, headed on into the valley.

A lane of red wine

The climb out of the valley was a bit taxing, not helped by a badly behaved dog in the village of Relvas who was a bit threatening. It was doubly not-helped by seeing the woman who owned the dog standing on her balcony and not bothering to intervene. But the last hill was under the A4 viaduct that can be seen below. I can see why this stage has a difficulty rating of 4/5 on Gronze.

Revlas village on the hill

Vila Real itself is not the most attractive town. The walk in was ok but the town centre was a bit miserable, not helped by the weather. Stayed in a private room in a hostel occupied not by pilgrims but just young people. The welcome was warm though and was sent to a laundrette for a much needed wash and dry.

While the wash was on, refuge from the weather was in a trendy little wine bar called Bilha. I think the owner was trying to create a hip-vibe and to be fair did it quite well. Once the laundry was all done, it was off to Tralha, another trendy and cool wine bar hiding behind a terrible unprepossessing entrance which served great food. The waiter spoke English well and recommended a good local wine.